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It's much easier to 'thread' onto lines or eyelets than brass tubing as well. I just slide a section of the tubing over the shank of the eyelet and secure it with any adhesive. Then the lines are ready to go. Cabane struts and deck areas forward of the cockpit are most easily rigged before the top wing is attached, If drilling holes for eyelets is impractical, tubing sections can be threaded onto the lines themselves, then the lines can be secured with CA alone, and then disguised with etch fittings to resemble brackets and such.

Once your model is assembled and painted--an important step to avoid frustration--use a needle or stiff wire to go back and check that all your pre-drilled holes are still clear. Then use the cross lock tweezers to insert the eyelets, one at a time, into the corresponding holes. When stretching each line and fixing the opposite end, make sure that lines aren't crossed, or passed on the wrong side of intervening struts, or wrapped around other lines or projecting bits. Good light and optical aids help here. A tiny droplet of CA on the eyelets should hold almost instantly to secure the anchor sliding into its socket.

  • The Spad XII C.1!
  • SPAD - Wikipedia.
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Angles of lines can be adjusted by carefully bending the anchored eyelets into line with a toothpick or other implement. The coiled wire is pretty forgiving for minor adjustments. Double flying wires are only as difficult as drilling the two side-by-side seating holes as close together as you can get them. Then just attach as usual. The best part of this whole method is that the lines don't actually have to be anchored to those bay struts, to start; properly-located, the crossing lines just 'touch' where they're supposed to, crossing at or near the center of that bay strut.

I ran one flying wire to the outside, one to the inside, the latter actually passing above the horizontal member. It's such a minute offset that it's scarcely visible, as long as the forward and rear lines cross at the same point. Once the lines were attached to the wings, I used a droplet of CA to tack the lines in place on the bay strut. Glued on top of the crossed lines and carefully painted, they look like they're attaching to the strut instead of just the lines. Sorry this turned into a treatise, but I hope this answers your major questions. If you have any specific queries or clarifications needed just let me know.

I apologize for not including the close-ups you requested, but I don't have any that show any better detail; I may be able to take some new ones this weekend. What an incredibly beautiful model- I can't add to the superlatives already expressed by the others except to say ditto! Thank you for your prompt and thorough reply. It is exactly what I needed. I have a small squadron of Roden Spad vii and a couple of Hobbycraft Spad xiii that are getting to the rigging stage and your method will help me get on toward completion.

  1. Spad 13 C1.
  2. Absolute Radiometry. Electrically Calibrated Thermal Detectors of Optical Radiation;
  3. SPAD 13.C1.
  4. Nature (Vol. 438, No. 7069, 8 December 2005).
  5. Open Skies, Closed Minds.
  6. The Language of Evaluation: Appraisal in English.
  7. The Revell Kit;
  8. I really appreciate your help and admire your work. I attended Perry Hall HS. The good old days! I didn't grow up or go to school here, but I've lived here since ' It's definitely home, now.

    SPAD | SPAD C1 (F-AZFP//S/5). Meeting Aerien… | Flickr

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    SPAD XII C.1

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    • SPAD XIII C.1;

    C1 of the US 22nd Aero Sq. This site uses cookies! Learn More. Okay, got it. SPAD Recommended Posts. Posted November 21, edited. A real labor of love, and great fun. Hope you enjoy the photos.

    Fokker DR.1 versus Spad XIII

    Edited November 23, by thorfinn more pics! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites. Posted November 21, Great job. Simply superb - every detail first class modelling! Marvellous job on the Spad.

    RoF: SPAD 13.C1 vs Fokker

    The Hobbycraft molds for this kit seem to be in the same warehouse as the Lost Ark. Tremendously good model. Super detailing, especialy all the repair patches. What decals did you use? I really love this one! Beautiful job as others have already said. Posted November 22, Visual Art Original Work Sculpture. Backround: The spad xiii made its combat debut in and was one of the best if not the best french fighter aircraft in wwi.

    As soon as the spad was available it was flown into combat and was a total succes. Pilots fond the spad xiii a reliable aircraft and it also had good visibility. Armed with 2 7,7 mm machine huns, the spad was a deadly opponent. Over were built and many aces flew the spad xiii. Not only the french used this biplane, also the americans flew the spad with great success. Eddie rickenbakker,an american ace flew the spad xiii too.

    Glencoe 5118 1/48 Spad XIII C.1 French Aces Kit

    The spad replaced the older nieuport fighters in the squadrons it was used in and it was found to be one of the most formidable aircraft of the first world war. The model. The engine looks nice therefore. I really like it. Image size. Comments 2.

    Fokker DR.1 versus Spad XIII